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Subject Code : EG5031
Country : United Kingdom

Assignment Task

Part 1

1. You each have been given a location on the UK coastline. The list of these locations (Figure A-1 in Appendices) against the student names/IDs are given in the EG5031 Moodle folder. You are required to pick up the assigned UK location.

2. For your own designated location you are required to estimate the 50 year wave height just offshore of your site (i.e. in deep water) based on a JONSWAP analysis. The details have been already shown by the Module Leader / Lecturer. The JONSWAP analysis spreadsheet is saved in the same folder. The tables to calculate coefficients of wind duration and directional wind speeds are given in Appendices at the end of this coursework brief as well as your Waves notes.

3. Based on the direction of your calculated 50 year wave height, you will then have to carry out a refraction, shoaling and breaking analysis to determine the wave conditions at the toe of your coastal defence structure.

  • The depth of water at the toe of your structure is 6 m.

  • Assume the structure is a 1 in 2 sloping revetment protected by rock.

  • The beach slope immediately in front of your structure has a 1 in 25 slope (1 vertical to 25 horizontal).

  • Determine the wave period assuming that the wave steepness in deep water is equal to 0.042 where steepness is given by Eq. (1).

  • Assume that the crest of the structure is 5 m above the water level.


4. Wave overtopping is to be determined based on Owen’s (1980) equations which are given below.

n= 2πH/gT 2    Eq. 1 


  • n = wave steepness (-)
  • H = wave height (m)

  • T = wave period (s) Owen’s (1980) equations are:


Owen’s (1980) equations are:

Q = Q∗TgH      Eq.   (2)

Q∗ = A exp(−BR∗ )   Eq. (3)

Q∗ = Rc/r T√gH   Eq. (4)


  • Q = Overtopping discharge (m3 /s/m)


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  • Posted on : January 05th, 2024

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